Ulthuan

Okay, I'm not great, but I think I'm average. This is what I have

16 Archers
16 Spearelves
8 Silverhelms(boo hiss )
2 Repeater Bolt Throwers
1 Prince & Noble
1 Archmage & Mage
12 Phoenix Guard
5 Swordmasters
1 Lion Chariot
AND(drum roll please! ) A PRINCE(DRAGON MAGE) ON A DRAGON !!!!!!!!!! *cheers*

I have done 5 archers.

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In sure it looks better in propped scale. Looks fairly clean, the white doesn't look too patchy etc. I'm sure you know what I reccomend though

keep them coming.

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The Dwarf begged the Dice Gods for Insane Courage on his re-rollable Break Test, failed to achieve it, and the Dice Gods mocked him horribly by giving him Double 1s for his flee distance immediately after. My White Lions promptly ran the Warriors down.
Lord Tethlis' account of slaying fowl Dawi.

To take better pics you need to use the macro setting on your camera. Most new digital cameras have it but if yours doesnt next time you come over you can use mine.

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If only every kingdom of Ulthuan had the might and honor of Caledor. Then Ulthuan could be rid of the druchii long ago.

I have a good enough digi camera with macro, Thanks for the tip.

My bolt thrower #1(Yes, It is missing a leg, thats what you get for bringing it in the car without a case...)



Tips on painting and how to make the pictures smaller?(I use photobucket)

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My tip is water down your paint a little and do a couple of coats. See how ur paint looks lumpy? Doing a couple of watered down coats will give it a smoother nicer look.

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The Dwarf begged the Dice Gods for Insane Courage on his re-rollable Break Test, failed to achieve it, and the Dice Gods mocked him horribly by giving him Double 1s for his flee distance immediately after. My White Lions promptly ran the Warriors down.
Lord Tethlis' account of slaying fowl Dawi.

ive found for when doing photos, first download 'Picasa' from google free and easy to use, i believe someone put up a guide for it on the forum that may be in a sticky. when taking the photo do so from further away then once youve changed you brightness etc on the picture in picasa crop the picture down a little then export as an 800kb which is the defualt. i find you can get a good scale on your models then.

just remember when taking the picture the model should fill the screen. you can always zoom in a bit after. if you just use macro and get right next to the model all youll see are the mistakes and not the model as a whole.

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If your interested in some commission work Take a look at my Painting blog.
If your interested in learning some techniques Take a look at my Tutorials blog.

Okay, I need the opinion of U.net users...Metallic Blue or blue metal like the book DPs




Not perfect. C&C and opinion?

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I think the blue metal helmet on the guy on the left looks best, metalic blue often seems to look a bit wishy washy.

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Yea the left one looks better IMO.

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"You only get one chance to make a last impression."
"For every choice, a consequence."

I work my skills threadomancy...

Okay so I give an attempt at NMM. What is missing from the WL armor NMM. It just doesn't look right



And I finished painting an Archer that looks good in my opinion.

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It's definitely an improvement, still fair splotchy and rough though.

You need to thin your paints more. Also it'll help if you don't completely paint over the darker layers all the way to the edges.

Wow, I just looked at the pics, they look terrible. In person, it looks pretty great.

I'm not sure what you mean by saying,

I really need to know what I did wrong with the NMM, any help?

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hmm the NMM atm isn't bad but the contrasts here and there are a bit lacking,
don't be afraid to go to pure white,
and use sharp turn overs from light to dark
and above all pick 1 direction to let the light come from, in addition to the classic higher parts lighter, lower parts darker

and have a close look at the thread about all the nice HE armies that have passed the review here, there are some great examples of nmm in there ( I believe its a seperate category even)

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Those are a big improvement.

The NMM is not bad, however, you can see changes betweens the colours. You need to have very watered down paint (consistency of skimmed milk) and then paint the whole thing very slowly with lots of layers of the dark colour. That gets you a smooth basecoat which is very important. Then make a lighter mix and bring the highlight up by making lots of translucent layers. Highlight small dots of white at the end. Once you've mastered that it might still look bad though. That's because highlighting and mettalics are different. So you need to think about where the light will reflect. For this I think the lightest point should be the upper side of the round raised part of the plate. The lower part should be highlighted a bit towards the bottom but not too much. Then add small white dots both on you lightest area and on any sharp edges. For a large flatish are like this armour you could make a sort of twinkly reflection like a star. Knowing where to highlight is the most difficult bit and I struggle with it.

Does that make enough sense?

In fact I, I think the best way to paint is with paint of milk consistency all the time That would take a while though

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Oh boy. An eight year old threadomancy.

I hadn't visited Ulthuan since 2014. I did some research and was devastated to find that GW stopped Warhammer Fantasy as a game, and that really disappointed me. However yesterday as I was going through some old possessions, I found my old Warhammer, and I really feel like painting it up. So I went out and bought some cheap paint at Hobby Lobby (because almost all my old GW paints have just dried up despite the lids being closed), and I started painting today. However, the paint seems to be SUPER glossy compared to GW paint. Do y'all have any suggestions as to how to tone down the gloss?

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Well I can only think of two options. 1) Get some matte medium instead of watering your paints use that to thin them. 2) Just paint as usual, and when you are done use matte varnish on the model. This is the easiest and cheapest option.

Nice to see you drop in and revive the plog again after 8 (!) years

We're still here, despite GW killing WH. People slowly seem to be coming back into the hobby. Indeed because painting models is just fun. And there's always some people around who still enjoy 8th edition or The 9th age (which is the fan made successor of 8th edition). I'm looking forward to what models will appear here.

I think Shannar gave you the best two options. I've read good things about Testors dull coat, though I've never used it myself. But it seems to be the go-to matt varnish for a lot of hobbiests.

Option 3 is of course to buy more, different paints

Rod

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Eirik wrote:

Please try to remember that, no matter how 'official' the source seems, rumours are basically just a dictionary combined with a random number generator

For Nagarythe: Come to the dark side.
PS: Bring cookies!

Check out my plog
Painting progress, done/in progress/in box: 167/33/91

Or Kings of War!

Welcome back, looking forwards to seeing what you'll get up to

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Prince Deral Lionbane, head of the House of Lionbane, Lord of Lionstone and Warden of Tor Charta

Luna, try not to beat them too hard. They are proud about their pseudo-glorious past and their present nothingness, you know.
-Elmoth, about Caledorians

Its amazing to see the old fam around. I remember when Rod and SpellArcher joined haha. Good to see oldies but goodies like Luna and Shannar are still around.

I painted up a bolt thrower over the last few days. I still got to get a matte varnish. C&C please!

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That's looking pretty good.

Some of us just never manage to go away.

That's the first time anyone calls me a goodie

That RBT looks very nice, the gems especially pop

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Prince Deral Lionbane, head of the House of Lionbane, Lord of Lionstone and Warden of Tor Charta

Luna, try not to beat them too hard. They are proud about their pseudo-glorious past and their present nothingness, you know.
-Elmoth, about Caledorians

And there I was, feeling like I'd been here a long time already I guess there's no escaping Ulthuan…

I like the RBT. Very clean painting. And the metal and gems are excellent. The brown wood feels a bit too plasticky to me. Though perhaps that's because of how shiny it is and the mat varnish will fix it. Looking forward to the crew models.

Rod

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Eirik wrote:

Please try to remember that, no matter how 'official' the source seems, rumours are basically just a dictionary combined with a random number generator

For Nagarythe: Come to the dark side.
PS: Bring cookies!

Check out my plog
Painting progress, done/in progress/in box: 167/33/91

I mean almost 10 years is a very long time haha. But I honestly am feeling really good about coming back, at least for painting/modeling (the WHFB scene in Utah was scarce even before GW killed it).

Question, does anyone have links to assembly instructions for our high elf models? I can use Hoard o Bits' site to find what bits go together but I'm struggling putting models I don't know together (I'm assembling my cousin's old High Elves he has graciously let me have for the time being).

Also, the matte varnish on the RBT REALLY helped the glossy look I wasn't liking.

Another question, what are your favorite methods of paint/primer stripping, and dust removal (these bad boys got dust ALL over them).

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For plastics I've become a fan of denatured alcohol. For metals I use acetone. For the dust, probably just wash them and then let them dry before adding them to the paint stripper. Whatever is left will come off with the paint.

As to the instructions, if it's something GW still makes send them and e-mail and you'll get a pdf of the instructions. Might be worth a shot on more recently oop kits as well. If they don't come though for you let me know what it is. I've got a lot of my plastic kits still unassembled (because I've decided I dislike them) and would be happy to scan (or photograph if I'm feeling lazy) the instructions for you.

I'll go ahead and shoot them an email first. I think it would be good to keep photos/scans of all instructions on our site. EDIT: Holy crap they got back to me in under 5 minutes. That's freaking amazing.

Why denatured alcohol compared to normal alcohol? Is there a particular amount of time I should leave the miniatures in the stripper? I just want to make sure I don't leave them in there too long.

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It works better. No idea of the chemistry- I'm a bridge engineer, not a wizard.

Ja, part of the whole makeover that gave us AoS has also seen impressive improvements in the way GW handles things. Instead of never doing FAQs ever they are trying to be a bit more supportive. They probably COULD have done a lot of this with warhammer and it would have helped a lot. But I think killing the game that got your company going probably helps show the need for changes in many areas.

Have you got any examples of bridges you've engineered? (I'm always a curious person...).

I might have some instructions lying around as well if you need some.

As for paint stripping, I've heard good stories about using natural green soap. Soak them in it for a while and you should be able to scrub off the paint. Simple green is a commonly used brand if you can find it. But I suspect that other green soap will work just as well.

For dust removal I think washing and brushing with a basic toothbrush works wonders. Another option, if you have it is to use an airbrush (without any paint) to simply blow off the dust.

And AoS indeed seems to have changed the company in more ways then simply changing the game. It might have created a sense of urgency and a need to really connect with your audience and build out your community instead of the complacency a monopolist (which the were) tends to have.

We'll see what the future brings.

Rod

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Eirik wrote:

Please try to remember that, no matter how 'official' the source seems, rumours are basically just a dictionary combined with a random number generator

For Nagarythe: Come to the dark side.
PS: Bring cookies!

Check out my plog
Painting progress, done/in progress/in box: 167/33/91

I use break fluid for stripping plastic and whatever's the strongest toxic I can get my hands on to strip metal.

As for how to assemble, I just look at pictures and the pieces available and then do my own thing

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Prince Deral Lionbane, head of the House of Lionbane, Lord of Lionstone and Warden of Tor Charta

Luna, try not to beat them too hard. They are proud about their pseudo-glorious past and their present nothingness, you know.
-Elmoth, about Caledorians

Thanks for the advice on paint stripping everyone.

I'm with Rod. I'm really curious about them bridges. Also, I asked, so GW sent me ALL their available instructions they have for High Elves.

I may be wrong, but I feel like our old warhammer fantasy game could make a comeback in 5-6 years. I just don't see AoS doing well now or in the future.

Another question. What do you all use as a model file? Or do you just use an exacto knife? Also, how do you get greenstuff to do what you want so it covers cracks and sprue removal divots?

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I use army painter files and my Leatherman. As for the green stuff, with much swearing and frustration

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Prince Deral Lionbane, head of the House of Lionbane, Lord of Lionstone and Warden of Tor Charta

Luna, try not to beat them too hard. They are proud about their pseudo-glorious past and their present nothingness, you know.
-Elmoth, about Caledorians